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‘Behind the PS24 Kollektion’
In Conversation with Luisa Dames
Words: Meghan Costelloe
As Aeyde launches its Pre-Spring ‘24 Kollektion, Meghan Costelloe speaks with Founder and Creative Director Luisa Dames. In this conversation, Luisa considers the season’s inspirations, harnessing creativity through ritual observance, and how a collection is never really complete.
As Aeyde launches its Pre-Spring ‘24 Kollektion, Meghan Costelloe speaks with Founder and Creative Director Luisa Dames. In this conversation, Luisa considers the season’s inspirations, harnessing creativity through ritual observance, and how a collection is never really complete.
MC: What inspired the Pre-Spring ‘24 Kollektion?

LD: We had a general storyline, which hinged on changing perspectives, a feeling towards cultivating unity and connection, of leaving home–even migrating given what was, and is, happening in Europe. We really considered these themes, translating them into the season’s overarching Murmurations topic. What I felt when developing this collection was that it should be more subtle. In a moment where it was more serious, we needed to be grounded. So, really very understated, very sort of refined. This season, we invested in the qualities, in the textures. We worked a lot with brown suede, with a lot of glossy textures that are almost level with color with the richness they bring.
MC: What’s the catalyst for a new collection, and when do you start working on one?

LD: It’s a constant process. Once the new collection launches, I already have all the ideas for the following collection. I’m now here for this one week in Paris, working with this collection [Editor’s note: When we speak to Luisa, she’s in Paris showing Aeyde’s Fall/Winter ‘24 Kollektion] and I’m almost building the next one. I think this is very beautiful because one collection is followed by the next, and I think that’s the strong suit about Aeyde, right? The brand’s continuity.

MC: Absolutely. If it’s a continuous cycle, how do you harness your creativity, your inspiration?

LD: For me, I observe a lot. I do this quite often. I really sit in a café and I observe my surroundings. I sit in flights, I sit in trains–everywhere there’s an element of travel or waiting. So, it’s in these moments where you’re surrounded by people, but not necessarily actively participating, when I find inspiration. Even here [in Aeyde’s Parisian FW24 showroom], again, it’s an observational element that I think is so important–when I hear stylists coming in, and a buyer commenting on something I think: “This is good.” Then I know I will take that into the next collection.

MC: Within the new collection, what’s the quintessential Aeyde shoe?

LD: Definitely the Gabriella ballerinas, so really this ‘biker ballerina,’ which is the first time we’re showing such a directional ballet flat. We’re proposing it in satin, which is also a first for Aeyde. With this design, there is still this element of ‘élégance’ to it; pairing a very chic material with a very directional silhouette. And it’s the merging of this harder element with a softer one that creates a really strong look. In that way, it becomes quite Aeyde in aesthetic. 

MC: Considering the ‘Aeyde aesthetic,’ what does every collection have to have?

LD: It definitely needs some gloss. In the new collection we have Eliza–a slingback pump with a soft patent construction and the perfect midi heel. This particular patent, it’s a super soft material which looks super flattering on foot.

MC: And finally, how do you know when a collection is complete?

LD: It’s a super intuitive process–when I see it, I know it.
Shop Pre-Spring ‘24 here.

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