Between the 15th and 18th centuries, it’s estimated that around 60,000 people were executed for witchcraft in Europe and America, the majority of whom were women. Were they actually witches? Did they really possess supernatural powers? Is there somewhere, out there, a cave full of boxes containing perfectly intact penises? It’s impossible to say. But it was never really about the magic, though, was it? It was about power and who was allowed to wield it.
While the extermination of witches was officially outlawed by the mid-18th century, young women who identify outside of the norm continue to be persecuted. Think: the sexually empowered (read: bat shit crazy) Victorian banished to the asylum, the wayward flapper ostracized by polite society, the banged up suffragette fighting for her rights or the pill popping ’50s housewife suffering from domestic ennui. There's also the bra burning feminist still fighting for those elusive rights, the feared and revered girl boss breaking balls in the boardroom, the unapologetic pop star refusing to conform to the record label's demands, the Iranian girls ripping off their hijabs, the teen goth eating defiantly alone at lunch, the queer artist rebelling against the tyranny of Russian oppression, the trans woman in Trump’s America, simply trying to exist, in fact any woman in Trump’s America trying to exist.
But where there is persecution, there is always resistance. Indeed, thanks to feminism and its many undulating waves, women have been slowly able to claw some power back, and what's more, they’ve been doing it through the image of the witch. No longer the construct of male anxiety, the witch has become a symbol of power and resistance. This dates back to the 1960s and 70s when the Women’s International Terrorist Conspiracy from Hell (AKA W.I.T.C.H) used to dress up in long black robes and pointed hats as they stuck two crooked fingers up to the patriarchy. Around the same time, Yoko Ono penned the song "Yes, I'm a Witch" in which she sung the famous lines: “Yes, I'm a witch, I'm a bitch. I don't care what you say.” Yas, queen.
Fast-forward to the '90s and early '00s, and television shows like Charmed and Buffy, alongside cult movies like The Craft, introduced audiences to a new wave of women disarming demons and destabilising the patriarchy one spell at a time. These women were smart, funny, independent and complex. Sometimes even dark, which wasn’t necessarily framed as a flaw, but rather an authentic representation of the many facets of being a woman. What's more, their power wasn’t tied to their looks or “feminine” charm, but rather came from a strength within, which is what made them so impactful.
Spells were being cast on the runway too, as designers began to embrace the figure of the witch as the personification of female empowerment. Blending '90s grunge with gothic allure, French designer Martine Sitbon's iconic spring/summer 1993 collection featured an enchanting Kate Moss sauntering down the runway in a pointed hat and veil. Elsewhere, Comme De Garçons' “Dark Romance, Witch” autumn/winter 04 collection featured a coven of models in deconstructed Victorian dress.
And it wasn't just witches being rehabilitated, but Joan of Arc, too. Canonised as a saint in 1920, for designers like John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Alexander McQueen, Joan of Arc represented the ultimate expression of rebellion and resistance. McQueen was so inspired by her story of martyrdom that he based an entire show around her, which featured medieval chainmail and ecclesiastical attire, and crescendoed in a model being engulfed by flames.